From Elemi's Notebook

The Necklace That Carries a Garden

A piece of Art Nouveau jewellery, a journey from Florence, and a story that continues to grow.

· 4 min read ·

An Art Nouveau chrysoprase and marcasite necklace resting on a treasured fur stole

Some pieces of jewellery feel as though they have been designed rather than made.

They are not simply assembled from metal and stones. They seem to gather a small world around themselves: leaves, petals, curling stems, the glimmer of water, the hush of a garden just before evening.

My Art Nouveau chrysoprase and marcasite necklace is one of those pieces.

It carries the language of nature close to the skin. Its silver setting has the quiet intricacy associated with Art Nouveau, that extraordinary period when artists and designers looked away from rigid symmetry and towards the living world. Lines softened. Flowers became architectural. Vines curved into frames. Jewellery began to move as though it were growing.

At its centre, chrysoprase brings a tender green light — not the sharp green of fresh paint, but something gentler and more mysterious. It recalls young leaves, moss after rain and the pale green of a garden seen through morning mist. The marcasite adds a darker, glinting counterpoint: tiny flashes of shadow among the leaves.

Together, the stones create a mood rather than merely a colour.

Close view of the necklace showing its green chrysoprase stones, marcasite and flowing silver setting
The valuer’s photograph reveals the necklace’s delicate Art Nouveau detail.

This is jewellery that does not demand attention through size or brilliance. Its beauty is more secretive. It rewards a closer look, revealing its details gradually: the cool gleam of the silver, the green stone, the darker sparkle, the suggestion of organic movement. It feels discovered rather than displayed.

And perhaps that is why it belongs so naturally to a personal wardrobe.

A cherished piece of jewellery is never only about what it looks like. It becomes attached to the circumstances in which it was found, the place where it entered our life, and the other pieces that later gather around it. A necklace may begin as an object seen in a shop or gallery, but over time it becomes a marker of a journey. It remembers a particular city, a particular day, a particular version of ourselves.

This necklace’s story starts for me in Florence, Italy, where I discovered it in an antique shop on the Ponte Vecchio and fell in love with its delicate design. Its story is also entwined with that of its matching bracelet — a companion discovered later, back here in New Zealand.

Together they form more than a set. They create a conversation across distance: one piece connected to travel and discovery, the other found closer to home. Their relationship gives the jewellery a second chapter, as though the original garden had sent out a new shoot. I’m still looking for earrings to go with them…

The matching silver bracelet set with chrysoprase and marcasite in an organic Art Nouveau design
The matching bracelet, found years later in New Zealand.

That is one of the quiet pleasures of collecting beautiful things. We rarely know at the moment of discovery which objects will become part of a larger story. A necklace may wait years before meeting its bracelet. A coat may reveal its most beautiful detail only when it is opened. A scarf may eventually become inseparable from the memory of the landscape where it was bought.

The wardrobe is full of these delayed connections.

For wearing, this necklace would be especially lovely against warm ivory, soft cream, olive, deep green or a gentle brown — colours that allow its chrysoprase to glow while harmonising beautifully with warm auburn hair and grey-blue eyes. It could bring a little Art Nouveau poetry to a simple blouse, or sit beneath the lapel of a tailored jacket as a quiet historical detail.

It would also be enchanting with my Rose Bouquet top, where the green could echo the olive and the darker tones draw out the burgundy. For a more dramatic evening setting, it could accompany my Black Silk Rose Embroidered Coat, allowing the necklace’s garden to emerge against the dark silk like a miniature illuminated landscape. A touch of gold elsewhere — perhaps a warm-toned ring or bracelet — would make the silver and green feel even more unexpected.

A floral Rose Bouquet top and a black silk coat embroidered with pink roses
Two ways the necklace’s garden could continue through the wardrobe.

But its true magic lies beyond its combinations.

The necklace carries a garden because it carries a feeling: that nature can be preserved in metal and stone; that a journey can be held close; that beauty can travel from one country to another and continue gathering meaning.

Somewhere between the original discovery and the later arrival of its matching bracelet, this necklace ceased to be merely an object of adornment.

It became a keeper of stories.

And whenever it is worn, the garden opens again.